ONE WEEKEND IN… PARIS

In autumn 2019 we recommended a Paris weekend that skipped the Eiffel Tower selfies and the Champs-Élysées. Does this plan still work six years later? Short answer: yes, most of it. The Panthéon, the Catacombs, the Canal Saint-Martin, and cemetery strolls remain as timeless as ever. One address has closed, but a new one has taken its place. Here’s the updated insider guide for two nights in a city you never really finish exploring.

Paris, je t’aime. Yes, the City of Love draws millions of couples every year, and the Eiffel Tower remains the must-do stop. But once you’ve walked the length of the Champs-Élysées, snapped the obligatory photo in front of the iron lattice tower, and admired the skyline from Sacré-Cœur, it’s time to experience Paris differently. With baguette, red wine, and cheese at the right time in the right place. This three-day plan takes you where Parisians go themselves.

Friday: Insider Sightseeing

Not that Notre-Dame isn’t beautiful. But trying to soak in the awe-inspiring aura of the Gothic cathedral amid hundreds of awestruck, camera-wielding tourists is tough. So why not head to the Panthéon just around the corner? This magnificent building on the hill of Sainte-Geneviève in the 5th arrondissement is France’s national hall of fame and the final resting place of its greatest minds. Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo and Émile Zola, Marie and Pierre Curie all lie in the crypt. Since 2018, resistance fighter and politician Simone Veil-one of the few women granted this honor-has also found her place here.

The grand finale? Climbing up to the dome. The colonnade has been restored and is open again: 206 steps, several pauses along the way, and at the top, a 360-degree panorama stretching from the Eiffel Tower over Montparnasse to Sacré-Cœur. The best part: you’ll likely have the view almost to yourself, while the crowds jostle in front of the cathedral. If you need to refuel afterward, the colorful, bustling Rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter is the perfect spot.

The best view of Paris isn’t where the masses stand-it’s one street over.

And if one sunset isn’t enough? In 2019, our evening ended at the Perchoir on the roof of the BHV department store in the 4th arrondissement. That rooftop bar is long gone, replaced by a new terrace with a South American concept and the same breathtaking 360-degree vista. The view remains, the cocktails still aren’t cheap, but every euro is worth it for that rooftop perspective.

Saturday: Paris Unseen

Saturday begins deep underground: in the Catacombs (Metro: Denfert-Rochereau). A macabre yet mesmerizing attraction. Of the 200-plus kilometers of former quarry tunnels beneath the city, about 1.5 km are open to visitors, drawing ever more adventurous explorers. Good reason: here rest the artfully stacked bones of roughly six million Parisians, relocated here from overcrowded cemeteries starting in the late 18th century. It’s a constant 14 °C, 20 meters below ground, and the full circuit takes 45 to 60 minutes. Tip: book online in advance-daily slots are limited and the line without a ticket is long.

To shake off the memento mori vibe, stroll along the Canal Saint-Martin in the 10th arrondissement. This 4.5-km-long waterway opened in 1825 on Napoleon’s orders and funded by a wine tax, and it’s celebrating its 200th birthday right now. Nine locks, cast-iron footbridges, plane trees along the banks: on sunny weekends, half of Paris comes here to picnic. A once-secret gem that’s no longer secret-but all the better for showing off so much city life.

Come evening, it’s time to party. Also in the 10th arrondissement, tucked behind an unassuming courtyard, sits the dance-and-cocktail bar Le Comptoir Général. Don’t let the occasional queue deter you: inside, freshly mixed drinks and relaxed vibes await in a former stable dressed with Afro-Caribbean flair. If you’re peckish first, the tiny, excellent restaurant next door has you covered.

Sunday: Pure Relaxation

A city break can be exhausting, so Sunday calls for some well-earned downtime. Paris spoils you culinary-wise at every corner, but for a particularly lovely breakfast with croissants, café au lait, soft-boiled eggs and homemade jam, head to Café Charlot in the Marais (3rd arrondissement). If you prefer something more international, drop by Bob’s Bake Shop in Halle Pajol near Gare du Nord for fresh-pressed juices, outstanding bagels and cinnamon buns.

After this leisurely feast you’ll be ready for a stroll through the Père-Lachaise cemetery. It may sound unusual to visit a graveyard, but away from the urban jungle it’s worth the trip: the graves of Frédéric Chopin, Édith Piaf and Jim Morrison are among the most visited in the world, interspersed with enchanted avenues and ancient trees. Round off the day at Restaurant Les Éditeurs at Carrefour de l’Odéon, where you can enjoy a modern take on classic French cuisine between bookshelves and reading chairs.

No matter how many times you’ve been, Paris casts its spell anew each time. If the urge for a European city break has taken hold, our weekend in Naples is the next logical step, or follow us to the underrated Ljubljana. Prefer to hit the road? Our seven hidden gems for your next road trip will give you plenty more inspiration.